Kings Canyon/Alice Springs

SUNDAY, MAY 4

At 8 a.m. when we left the campsite, it was already 20 degrees. We stopped at Kings Canyon to do the Kings Creek Walk – a walk up a dry creekbed to a viewpoint at the end. There were a lot of people starting off on the 4 hour Kings Canyon loop – some of them probably should not have been. They were having difficulty with the first part of the trail and were having to pull each other up.

882This is the start of the Kings Canyon Loop

The Kings Creek walk was mostly in the shade – and not too bothered by flies until we were almost finished. It was the first walk we’ve done that has had signs along the way, explaining what you are seeing in the creek bed.

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This area must have huge flash floods – there were large trees washed up against other trees. You can see the water markings on the rocks – they are black in places where the water washes over them. The viewpoint at the end was pretty – and you could see hikers doing the Kings Canyon loop on the rim of the canyon. Another reason I wasn’t going to be hiking there.

After the 45 minute hike, we headed for Alice Springs. Our original thought was to stop at Erldunda again – but we were there about noon and it seemed to early to stop. We decided to continue on to Alice Springs and look for a campsite at the MacDonnell Ranges campsite – even though we were here at 3 p.m. we were lucky to get a spot – this is a huge campground and it was almost full. It’s a nice spot for families – there are lots of kid activities. They even had internet access so I managed to upload all the photos and blog entries. After dinner, I decided to take advantage of the on-site laundromat – they even have clothes lines for drying. (Actually all the campsites we’ve stayed at have had clothes lines).

On the road outside Erldunda – we spotted a thorny devil (a lizard) on the road, sunning himself (no, he wasn’t flat – he was bobbing up and down). We wanted to turn around and take a photo but figured he’d be gone by the time we got back *g*

880This is John’s favourite road sign – too bad the vehicle we had wasn’t capable of doing that speed.

One of the local radio stations in Alice Springs is Sun FM – now I know of 3 of them.

Tomorrow we are heading to the Alice Springs Desert Park and the National Road Transport Hall of Fame before we return the van. We stay Monday night at the Best Western in Alice Springs and then fly to Cairns in the afternoon on Tuesday.

The campervan has been fun – but definitely costly. Fuel for the 2,664 km has cost $437. Actually it’s a little more than that as we don’t have to fill it up when we return it as we prebought a full tank (at 1.64/litre which is definitely cheaper than we’ve been paying). We thought the propane had run out but John checked it over and discovered the tank wasn’t hooked up properly and it was sucking air so he fixed it and then the stove worked well again. It’s been great being able to cook our own meals – and the best purchase we’ve made has been the frying pan (so I don’t use one that might have had eggs cooked in it). We did well with the food buying and don’t have much leftover – and only had to buy one loaf of bread after we did our initial shopping.

Temperature: 29 C – sunny

Chris and John at the end of the walk

Chris and John at the end of the walk

Kings Creek Walk

Kings Creek Walk

Hikers on the rim of the Kings Canyon Loop

Hikers on the rim of the Kings Canyon Loop

MONDAY, MAY 5

Didn’t do too much today – when we got up we cleaned out the campervan and then went to the Alice Springs Desert Park. It’s a fantastic place and well set up – we ended up spending 3 1/2 hours there and decided that we didn’t have enough time to spend at the National Road Transport Hall of Fame. They have an audio tour (free of charge) that you can use in the park. The park has various areas including Desert Rivers, Woodlands and Sand Country. There were a number of enclosures where you could see animals (mostly birds – except in the nocturnal exhibit). We really enjoyed the park – and were amazed that there weren’t many tourists there. One thing that I really liked were the signs on the various trees and plants, explaining what they were and what the natives used them for.

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John got to see a thorny devil up close (and not just sunning on the road) – they are really strange looking.

We finally got to see kangaroos too – and this guy looks like the card I got from work.

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After we left the park, we headed to the Best Western Elkira Inn at Alice Springs to see if we could check in there before we returned the van. We were in luck so we left all the luggage in the room and took the campervan back to the Maui dealer. We had to wait quite a while for a taxi back to the Best Western, but once there we went out for a walk.

The town itself seems to be the size of downtown Duncan – and with the same sort of problems. Lots of aboriginals on the street – some asking for handouts, others just looking “down and out”. One thing that’s noticeable is the security in all the stores and a lot of the homes – there are screens on the windows or high fences or guard dogs. It was really quiet in town, and then we found out that it’s a holiday – May Day. There were a few stores open in Todd Mall but we’ll have to go back again tomorrow.

Tomorrow, we’ll try to get out exploring in the morning before we have to check out at noon but the hotel has a luggage room where we can leave our luggage until we get the shuttle to the airport. The flight to Cairns leaves at 5:10 p.m. and we’ll arrive at 7:45 p.m.

Temperature: 30 C – sunny

An Australian Dogwood

An Australian Dogwood

Flowers at the Desert Park

Flowers at the Desert Park

Kangaroo grass

Kangaroo grass

Kangaroo grass sign

Kangaroo grass sign

Coober Pedy

THURSDAY, MAY 1

I think the clouds are following us – we woke up this morning to overcast skies and a cooler temperature. Even the driver of the tour bus commented on the fact that it was cooler than usual. For a change, it didn’t get blamed on the Canadians – there were a few couples from Victoria State on the tour and the weather was blamed on them. *s*

The tour driver was a lot of fun – he was knowledgeable and had a lot of interesting anecdotes. First stop was the Underground Serbian Church – there are 3 underground churches in Coober Pedy – two were made from old mining caves, but this one was built specifically as a church. It was beautiful inside – the walls and ceiling look almost like marble because of the veins of different rocks.

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After the church tour, we went “noodling” – searching for opals on the ground. The only rules are no mechanical equipment – we were shown what to look for – and what not to look for (gypsum) and sent off for 15 minutes of exploring. Surprisingly, John found a small rock with the colour of opal showing – he thinks it was because of the rain the day before, the stones were a little cleaner. Most of us didn’t find anything – I did find some potch – which is an indicator of opal but not actually coloured opal.

Next was the

722Coober Pedy 18-hole golf course

– the first thing we saw on the way in to the course, was a sign saying “keep off the grass”. Everyone was laughing then because this course is made of dirt and the “grass” around the holes is oil covered sand. The first tee is at the top of a hill –

753it has a good view of the town.

. We drove through an active opal mining field – and George, the tour driver, explained that there is no obligation for miners to fill in the test holes. There are piles of sandstone taken out of the test holes all over the place.

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They are cone shaped and varying colours – the lighter piles usually indicate that there is no opal there – the opal usually is found in the darker coloured rock. Apparently, a claim costs $160 for a year – the only stipulation is that you must work at mining it for 20 hours a week for 9 months of the year. The initial hole is done with a machine, and you can use dynamite and machines in the caves but if you find opal, it will blow the opal to pieces so the actual extracting of opals is done by hand with a pick.

We drove through the town – which isn’t much to see as most residents live underground. They do have a radio station – Dusty Radio, a bank, a few gas stations and a hospital though. The next stop was the

717Umoona Opal Mine and Museum.

There we were treated to a fascinating 10 minute documentary on the finding of opals in Australia before we were led on a tour of the museum and mine. The first thing we saw was an old dugout home – it was pretty bare and small. Then it was on to a modern dugout home (70% of Coober Pedy residents live in a dugout) – the walls and ceilings of the dugouts (which are inhabited by 70% of residents in Coober Pedy) are spray coated with a sealant and then are maintenance free forever. To wire the dugouts for electricity, they dig a gouge in the sandstone and run the wiring and then cover it with a mixture of sandstone and sealant so it isn’t visible. You can keep adding as many rooms as you want (as long as you’re within your hill), and if you’re really lucky, while you’re renovating you might find some opal. Then it was down into the former opal mine – lots of tunnels and the guide showed us where opal had been found – and then showed where there is still opal in the walls. It was really interesting – and gave quite an insight into living in Coober Pedy.

Oh – and about the spaceship – it was in a movie called Pitch Black. We were both wrong *s*

After the tour was over, we headed north on the Stuart Highway again. We made it to Erldunda – just inside the Northern Territory border where we stayed at the Desert Oak Caravan Park. This is a really nice set up – lots of space, pull through parking spots, tavern, restaurant, store and they had happy hour at the tavern there – so we went and had a beer and socialized with other travellers. We saw a

736kangaroo in the caravan park
but I’m not sure it could be classified as wild – we walked right past and it didn’t move.

Temperature: 31 C (at Erldunda where we stopped for the night at 4:30 p.m.) – sunny except for the above mentioned cloud in the morning

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At the Coober Pedy sign

John noodling for opals

John noodling for opals

Raw opal

Raw opal

FRIDAY, MAY 2

It might have been hot when we went to bed last night but it got cold during the night – guess it’s to be expected as we are on the outskirts of the Simpson Desert but it was a shock. It was 11 degrees and felt even cooler after the heat of yesterday. It soon started to warm up – we were on the road at 8:30 and by 11:30, the temperature was reaching the high 20’s. Our wildlife spottings for this drive included numerous wedge-tailed eagles and a camel – still no live kangaroos.

We reached Yularu (Ayers Rock Resort) at about 11:30, and checked in to the campsite before we did anything else – that turned out to be a smart move as the number of campers checking in after the sunset viewing of Uluru was huge.

After scoping out the campsite, we headed for Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) – it’s 200 metres taller than Uluru and is very impressive. We had thought about doing the Valley of the Winds walk but it was too warm out for a 4 hour hike so we settled for the Walpa Gorge hike – just an hour long. It was amazing to be walking beside such huge rocks – the trail ended at a thicket of ironwood trees and we stopped for a photo.

763When we got back to the van, we drove to the Valley of the Winds for another view of Kata Tjuta and then started for Uluru.

What can you say about Uluru? It’s every bit as impressive as photos make it seem – the walk around the base is 10 kilometres. And it seems massive – but most of all the colour just keeps drawing you back to look again. Of course we stopped for a photo opportunity there too.

762Chris and John in front of Uluru

We drove around the base and then went to the cultural centre for a while. It was interesting – but one story from the legends of the Anangu (pronounced arn-ang-oo) was repeated many times. I would have liked to hear other stories as well as we saw artwork depicting other legends.

Back to Ayers Rock Resort to look around the shopping center and then out to the sunset viewing area. We got there about 45 minutes before sunset and the lot was already filling up – can’t imagine what it would be like in the high season. Watching the sunset was phenomenal.

759The rock seemed to glow just before it went dark.

John and I both took too many photos but it was so easy to just keep pushing the button. We talked to a girl wearing a Vancouver 2010 Olympics t-shirt – we thought she might have been from Canada but she was from Japan and plays ice hockey.

All in all, we love Uluru and Kata Tjuta (even though it’s pricey – campsite $36/entry to park $25 ea/diesel $2.06 litre) – but hate the flies (so if we have funny expressions on our faces, it’s probably because the flies were attacking). They don’t bite but do try to fly into eyes, nose, mouth and ears at all times. I see now why people wear fly nets over their hats.

Tomorow, back to Uluru to do a short walk and then off to King’s Canyon.

Temperature: 33 C – sunny

Camel on the side of the road

Camel on the side of the road

Morning sky at Erldunda

Morning sky at Erldunda

Sign

Sign

 

SATURDAY, MAY 3

Didn’t get up early enough to catch the sunrise viewing so we headed to Uluru at about 7:45 a.m. for a walk on the Kuniya (Woma Python) Walk – which was posted as an hour walk. It was a really easy hike along boardwalk to a

811watering hole – probably took 25 minutes at most (and we stopped to look at the viewpoints) but it was in the shaded area and the temperature was already climbing so we didn’t look for another walk.

We left Yulara at 9:30, heading for King’s Canyon. It took about 4 hours driving. Still no kangaroos but we saw two herds of camels and some horses. Once we arrived, we got a camping spot at King’s Canyon Resort and then walked out to the sunset viewpoint to check it out. After that, it was back in the van for a trip to the King’s Canyon Park – we had thought to do a hike there but this was the temperature

853so we decided to try it tomorrow morning. When we started back to the van, there was a

818dingo in the parking lot. There are signs everywhere asking people not to feed the wildlife but this one seemed to be expecting a free meal.

On the way back to the campsite, we spotted these flowers

844Sturt Desert Pea

After that, it was R & R time – we had a shaded campsite and the flies weren’t too bad so we put the lawnchairs out and had a beer and some corn chips. Before long, we were surrounded by birds – crested pigeons, miners, a white-winged triller and crows (they were in the tree). The miners were very interested in the corn chips and one actually kept flying up and perching on John’s hand.

824He fed them for a while and then, when we put the chip bag away, they headed to another campsite.

Soon it was time to watch the sunset

849– our camping spot wasn’t far away from a vantage point that was just as good as the viewpoint. Not as spectacular as the sunset at Uluru but still pretty. When we started back to the van, there was a dingo casually strolling through campsites.

Tomorrow we leave in the direction of Alice Springs – after a walk at King’s Canyon. Hopefully will find internet access in Alice Springs so I can post this – or no one will have enough time to read all the entries.

Temperature: 38 C – sunny

Spinifex pigeon

Spinifex pigeon

Sign

Sign

Galah

Galah